General knowledge of garment fabrics
Fabric is the material used to make clothing.As one of the three elements of clothing, fabric can not only interpret the style and characteristics of clothing, but also directly affect the color and shape of clothing performance.
In the world of clothing, the fabric of clothing is diverse and changing with each passing day.However, in general, high-quality and high-grade fabrics are characterized by comfort, breathability, drape, noble vision and gentle touch.Make clothes for formal social occasions. Choose cotton, wool, silk and hemp products.The clothing made of these four pure natural fabrics is mostly of high class.Sometimes it is permissible to wear clothing made of pure leather.We briefly introduce the modeling features of different materials and the application in clothing design as follows.
Soft fabrics
Soft fabric is generally relatively light and thin, with good drape, smooth shape and natural outline.Soft fabric mainly includes fabric structure evacuation knitted fabric and silk fabric as well as soft and thin linen fabric.Soft knitted fabric is often used in clothing design to show the elegant curve of human body.Silk, hemp yarn and other fabrics are mostly loose and pleated, showing the flow of fabric lines.
2.Stretch fabric
The crisp fabric has clear lines and a sense of volume to form a full silhouette.There are cotton, polyester, corduroy, linen and various medium and thick wool and chemical fiber fabrics. This kind of fabric can be used to highlight the precise design of clothes, such as suits and suits.
3.Lustrous fabric
Glossy fabrics have a shiny surface and reflect light.This fabric includes satin fabric.Most commonly used in evening gowns or stage costumes, it produces a gorgeous, intense visual effect.Lustrous fabrics in the dress performance in the freedom of styling is very wide, can have simple design or a more exaggerated style.
4.Heavy duty fabric
The thick and heavy fabric is strong and scratchy, which can produce a stable styling effect, including all kinds of thick fabric and quilted fabric.The fabric has A sense of body extension, so pleats and stacking should not be used too much. In the design, a-type and h-type models are the most appropriate.
5.Transparent fabric
The material of transparent fabric is light and transparent, have elegant and mysterious artistic effect.Including cotton, silk, chemical fiber fabrics, such as georgette, satin-striped silk, chemical fiber lace.In order to express the fabric transparency, the commonly used lines are natural and full, with a variety of H - and circular design.
Section 1 characteristics of garment fabrics
1, cotton cloth,
It is the general term of all kinds of cotton fabrics.It is mostly used for fashion, casual wear, underwear and shirts.Its advantage is relaxed heat preservation, downy close-fitting, moisture absorption, permeability is very good.Its drawback is easy shrink, easy wrinkle, the appearance is not straight and beautiful, must be often ironed when wearing.
2, linen
It is a kind of cloth made of flax, ramie, jute, sisal, plantain, etc.Commonly used to make casual wear, work wear, at present also more with its ordinary summer wear.Its advantages are high strength, moisture absorption, heat conduction and good air permeability.Its drawback is that it is not very comfortable to wear, the appearance of a rough, stiff.
3, silk
It is a general term for all kinds of silk fabrics made of silk as raw materials.Like cotton, it has many varieties and different personalities.It can be used to make all kinds of clothing, especially for women's clothing.It is light, fit, soft, smooth, breathable, colorful, lustrous, noble and elegant, comfortable to wear.Its deficiency is easy to crease, easy to absorb, not strong enough, fast fade.
4, wool
Also known as woollen, it is a general term for a fabric of various kinds of wool and cashmere.It is often used to make formal, high-end clothing such as gowns, suits, coats.Its advantage is anti-wrinkle and wear-resisting, feel soft, elegant and upright, full of flexibility, warm.Its drawback is that washing is more difficult, not suitable for making summer clothes.
5, leather
It is a tanned animal fur fabric.It is mostly used for fashion, winter clothing.Can be divided into two kinds again: one is leather skin, the leather that passes to remove hair processing namely.The second is fur, that is, treated leather with belt hair.Its advantage is light and warm, elegant.Its drawback is the price is expensive, store, nurse respect demand is higher, reason should not popularize.
6, chemical fiber,
It's short for chemical fiber.It is the use of high polymer compounds for raw materials made of fiber textiles.It is usually divided into artificial fiber and synthetic fiber two categories.Their common advantages are bright colors, soft texture, drape and straight, smooth and comfortable.Their disadvantages are wear resistance, heat resistance, moisture absorption, poor air permeability, heat deformation, easy to produce static electricity.Although it can be used to make all kinds of clothing, but the overall level is not high, difficult to access the hall.
7, blending
Is the natural fiber and chemical fiber according to a certain proportion of blended fabrics, can be used to make a variety of clothing.Its advantage is that it not only absorbs the advantages of cotton, hemp, silk, wool and chemical fiber, but also avoids their disadvantages as much as possible, and is relatively cheap in value, so it is very popular.
8, pure cotton
Pure cotton fabric is a kind of textile which is made of cotton as raw material through loom.At present, cotton is divided into original cotton fabric and regenerative cotton fabric according to the actual cotton source.
Pure cotton fabrics are divided into:
Silk grey cloth: plain cloth, fine cloth, rough cloth, canvas, grey twill, original color cloth.
Printing color cloth: there are sulfide blue cloth, vulcanized ink cloth, shilin blue cloth, shilin grey cloth, color poplin, color card ji, all kinds of China.
Cloth: a cloth printed with various colors and patterns.For example: plain print, printed twill, printed serge, printed straight.
Interwoven fabric: it is a cloth, such as gingham, blanket, flannelette, wire cloth, decorative cloth, etc., woven from yarn or thread first dyed and then woven on the machine.
Characteristics of pure cotton fabrics:
Hygroscopic: cotton fibers have good hygroscopic properties. Under normal conditions, the fibers can absorb water into the surrounding atmosphere. The moisture content is 8-10%.If the humidity of cotton cloth increases and the surrounding temperature is higher, the water content in the fiber will all evaporate and disperse, so as to keep the water balance of the fabric and make people feel comfortable.
(2) the moisturizing effect: as the cotton fiber is a poor conductor of heat and electricity, heat conduction coefficient is extremely low, and because of the cotton fiber porous, high elasticity, between fiber can accumulate a large amount of air, the air is a poor conductor of heat and electricity, so the cotton fiber textiles have good moisturizing effect, pure cotton fabric dress makes people feel warm.
(3) heat resistance: pure cotton fabrics can good heat resistance, the temperature of 0 degrees Celsius below 110 ℃, will only cause fabric on evaporation, water will not damage fiber, so pure cotton fabric, at room temperature in use, such as washing and dyeing of textiles have no effect, thus to improve the cotton fabric washing durability performance.
H: alkali resistance of cotton fiber is bigger to alkali, cotton fiber is in alkali solution, fiber does not produce destruction phenomenon, this property is advantageous to take hind to pollute wash, disinfect and remove impurity, at the same time also can undertake dyeing, printing and all sorts of craft processing to pure cotton textile, in order to produce more cotton to weave new variety.
Hygienic: cotton fibers are natural fibers, made primarily of cellulose, with a small amount of waxy material and nitrogen and pectin.The pure cotton fabric has been inspected and practiced in many aspects. The contact between the fabric and skin has no stimulation, no negative effect, long wear is beneficial and harmless to human body, and has good health performance.
Cotton clothes have many drawbacks. 1.2. Easy to shrink, the shrinkage rate of cotton clothes is 2% to 5%, with the exception of special processing or washing water treatment.3. Easy deformation, cotton clothing will be easy to deformation, especially summer wear, because the fabric is relatively thin.
9. LYCRA fabric
Lycra is a commodity name for invida, a former wholly owned subsidiary of dupont that was acquired by Koch industries in 2004 for $4.4 billion. Because of its market dominance in spandex, lycra is synonymous with almost all spandex yarns.It completely replaced the traditional elastic elastic line, in the gymnastics clothing, swimming clothes and other special requirements, lycra is almost an essential element.It gives you a curvaceous, unstressed stretch of the gel.Not only is lycra widely used in everyday clothing, it's also a pet in fashion designers' popular kaleidoscope.Leica was thus called a magical fibre by the rejoicing people, and the name of the sphinx, the Egyptian sphinx, added to its mystique.
Many of our designer friends, when talking about their recent work, like to say, use a little lycra.Perhaps, not only is the lycra outfit quite fashionable, the word itself has a strong modern color.
Lycra is a new type of fiber from dupont company in the United States. At present, every garment that adopts lycra has a triangle tag, which also becomes a symbol of high quality.So where exactly is lycra's advantage?Unlike conventional elastic fibers, lycra can stretch 500 percent and return to its original form, according to a quality statement from dupont.That is, the fibers can be stretched very easily, but they can then be retracted and attached to the surface of the body with little binding force.Lycra fiber can be used with any fabric, including wool, linen, silk and cotton, to increase the close-fitting, elastic and loose natural characteristics of the fabric, feeling flexible when moving.And unlike most polyurethane wires, lycra has a special chemical structure that doesn't grow mold in a hot, humid sealed space.
As a result, lycra is called a "friendly" fiber, not only because it blends thoroughly with natural and artificial fibers, but also because it increases the comfort, fit, movement, and longevity of the fabric or garment.
LYCRA is free to stretch four to seven times, and quickly returns to its original length after the force is released.It cannot be used alone and can be interwoven with any other man-made or natural fibers.It does not change the appearance of the fabric, is an invisible fiber, can greatly improve the performance of the fabric.Lycra is remarkably stretchy.As far as knitwear is concerned, its multidirectional extension is determined by the fabric itself, and lycra brings only the elasticity of stretching and restoring.Machine fabrics are malleable only in the direction woven into lycra, such as warp knitting (linear) or weft knitting (horizontal).Pants benefit from warp stretch, while lycra containing bidirectional elastic fabric provides great comfort and free movement in both directions.Therefore, if you add lycra into women's garments such as trousers and coats, the folds can be easily restored automatically, and the clothes are more elegant and less prone to deformation, so that you can feel free and fresh.Already make rigorous suit, coat to wait, also do not have the slightest pressing with cramped feeling, the knitwear such as undershirt, underwear, aerobics joins a little lycra, already fit comfortable, wear on the body stretch freely, can move with the body.
Lycra has a wide range of applications and can add extra comfort to all types of clothing, including underwear, tailored coats, suits, dresses, trousers, knitwear, etc.It greatly improved the fabric hand feeling, drape, and crease recovery ability, improve the feeling of comfort and fit of various clothing, make all kinds of clothing appear new energy, especially the dupont and international wool bureau joint development of lycra add wool blended materials. For the end of the 20th century and the textile industry provides a new concept of the 21st century.
10, blending
Blended chemical fiber is a textile product made of chemical fiber and other natural fiber such as cotton, silk and hemp.For example: polyester cotton, polyester wool gabardine, etc.
For example, the polyester/cotton blend is made of polyester, which is mainly composed of 65%-67% polyester and 33%-35% cotton blended yarn.Characteristics: it highlights the style of polyester and the strength of cotton fabric. It has good elasticity and abrasion resistance under dry and wet conditions, stable size and small shrinkage. It has the characteristics of straight and straight, not easy to wrinkle, easy to wash and dry.
11. Oxford
A shirt fabric that feels soft and has a texture that is either plain or square.
In the 1900s, a small group of maverick students at Oxford University adopted the worsted cotton fabric for design and processing in order to fight against the luxury fashion of the time.Therefore, the fabric became the exclusive of Oxford University uniforms, and then became popular in Europe and the United States, known as Oxford spinning.
Oxford cloth, also known as Oxford spinning, is a mixture of polyester/polyester/cotton blended yarn and cotton yarn, and adopts weft and square tissue. It is easy to wash and dry, soft in hand, good moisture absorption and comfortable to wear.
It was named for the cotton fabric that was used in student uniforms at the university of Oxford.
Appendix: main varieties of Oxford cloth
1: woven Oxford cloth, specially used for making all kinds of luggage.
2: nylon oxfords, mainly making flood and rainproof supplies
3: all playing Oxford cloth, mainly making luggage
4: tigger Oxford cloth, mainly making various luggage
5: weft Oxford cloth, mainly made a variety of luggage
Oxford spinning is a kind of fabric weaving method, refers to when weaving cotton yarn crosswise overlapping sequence, Oxford spinning fabric actually belongs to the shirt fabric medium and low order.
At present, Oxford fabrics have pure cotton, polyester - cotton blended.
12, linen
Linen gunny (cloth);Linen;Grass cloth
It is a kind of cloth made of flax, ramie, jute, sisal, plantain, etc.Commonly used to make casual wear, work wear, at present also more with its ordinary summer wear.Its advantages are high strength, moisture absorption, heat conduction and good air permeability.Its drawback is that it is not very comfortable to wear, the appearance of a rough, stiff.
knit
Knitwear, or linen, refers to the woven fabric of the fabric.The dry weight of the square meter is generally 80-120g/cm, and the cloth surface is bright and clean, with clear lines, fine texture and smooth feel. The lengthwise and transversely have better extensibility, and the crosswise extensibility is greater than that of the longitudinal extension.Hygroscopicity and permeability are good, but there are loose and crimping, sometimes the coil skew phenomenon.The common sweatcloth is bleached sweatcloth, especially white sweatcloth, fine bleached sweatcloth, and burnt wool mercerized sweatcloth.According to the process of dyeing and finishing, there are plain coloured sweatcloth, printed sweatcloth and navy sweatcloth.According to the different raw materials used there are mixed cloth, silk cloth, acrylic cloth, polyester cloth, ramie cloth.
14, dacron,
Polyester is an important variety of synthetic fiber and is the commodity name of polyester fiber in China.Polyethylene terephthalate (PET), a fibrous polymer made from PTA or DMT and EG by esterification, transesterification and polycondensation, is spun and treated.